The Rule
Every crack wider than a hairline gets hot rubber sealant before the first coat of sealer touches the pavement.
Why Sealcoat Cannot Do It Alone
Sealcoat is a thin membrane — typically 20 to 30 mils on the finished surface. It has no structural capacity to bridge an opening in the pavement. Applied over a crack, the sealer sinks into the void and leaves the crack functionally uncovered.
The result: water still enters the base, the crack widens through the next winter, and the sealcoat cracks along the same line.
The Correct Sequence
- Sweep and clean the entire pavement
- Rout cracks where required (typically 3/8" wide or greater)
- Air-blow to remove debris and moisture
- Apply hot rubber crack sealant at manufacturer temperature
- Squeegee flush or leave a slight overband
- Allow crack sealant to cure
- Apply oil-spot primer to contaminated areas
- Apply sealcoat in two coats
- Restripe after full cure
Skip step 4 and everything else is compromised.
What About Very Fine Cracks?
Cracks narrower than about 1/16" can be effectively bridged by sealcoat and do not require hot rubber. Anything wider requires filling first — no exceptions on our jobs.
Related Services
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Get a Free Estimate
Quality Paving provides estimates throughout Middle Georgia and surrounding communities, subject to project location and scheduling. If you would like an honest assessment of your property, request a free estimate or call (770) 946-5355.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does routing cracks damage the pavement?
No. Routing widens the reservoir so sealant bonds properly and lasts longer.
Why hot rubber and not cold pour?
Hot rubber stays flexible across temperature swings and adheres far better. Cold pour is a short-term fix.
Can crack sealant be applied the same day as sealcoat?
Yes, once the sealant has skinned over. Timing on the job site is straightforward.